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BOUCHON, LAS VEGAS
The Venetian, Venezia Tower, Las Vegas. www.venetian.com

Bouchon Las Vegas is exactly what you might hope it to be. A little hard to find. In a nice casino. Not too big. And perhaps most importantly, it doesn't feel like Vegas at all once you're inside.

Inside is exactly the kind of French bistro the name Bouchon implies. Tiled floor. Really cool pewter bar. Excellent woods. Etched glass accents. Beautiful fresh flowers. Huge ceiling fans twirling lazily from their bases perhaps 20 feet or more above your head. A little outdoor area.

The food is excellent, I had the hangar steak, but it really doesn't matter becasue it's all good, all you really need is a newspaper, a cigarette, your little half blind dog on the seat beside you wearing a wool vest, and a nice glass of wine and you'd swear you were in France.

Which brings me to my next point. Paul. He's the Sommelier at Bouchon and is the best Sommelier I've ever met. He is engaging, unhurried, conversational and loves people. His choices were excellent and, as I rarely do, I recommend using him. He capped the experience for me on both occasions and I know he's a favorite of some of my local friends. Paul. Ask for him by name.

My only warning about Bouchon is the fries. And I can't be more serious about this.

Beware of the Bouchon French Fry for it is the finest, most insidious French fry ever crafted by the hands of man.

When the fries come, the portion will look deceptively sufficient. But as one fry after another slides down, this perception will change.

You are laughing. You are eating. And soon you are lamenting, "Oh my god I can't stop eating these fries.". You are laughing. You are eating. You are lamenting, "Dear God somebody please take these fries away from me. Seriously." You are laughing. You are eating. Then suddenly you are justifying, "One more little handful and that's it. No more fries. I'm done."

Then you are staring.

And as you stare, you notice how the large salt crystals clinging to the golden sides of the fries sparkle like diamonds. You focus in on one crystal in particular. It seems to have light moving within it. Yes, yes it does. There are shapes in it. Images. Indeed images of you. Inside the crystal you suddenly realize that your future is playing out as if it were a movie inside the crystal of salt itself. It is your future. And it is a divine future. For it is one that intimately involves more French fries.

And in you go.

This may happen for several "rounds" of Fries.

You have been warned.

Whatever your schedule is, if you're going to Bouchon, Las Vegas, especially if you're with freinds, add 2 hours and take your time. After all, this is the French way, no?

Dress code is whatever you're comfortable in. But nice is always nice. Expect about $80 a person.

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